Pai to Mae Hong Son

 

Road Trip Thailand, Pai to Mae Hong Son

This was another tortuous journey over the mountains on another sector on the famous Mae Hong Son Loop. We were, however, rewarded by some magnificent scenery as we first climbed up the mountain followed by a rapid descent via some hair-raising hairpin bends. As a reminder to be careful, we passed one truck in the middle of the road, lying on its side after obviously taking one bend too fast and losing control. The police were already in attendance and fortunately, the occupants were sitting by the side of the road looking slightly dazed but relatively unharmed. We arrived at the Fern resort which, I am glad to say, met with our unanimous approval as it has 2 swimming pools and is set in a huge area of land comprising of gardens intermixed with various agricultural crops such as rice, onions and lettuce. The resort has a beautiful restaurant where we ate a typical Thai dinner.

Mountain view, Mae Hong Son

Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham, Mae Hong Son

Fern Resort, Mae Hong Son

Fern Resort, Mae Hong Son

Dinner, Fern Resort, Mae Hong Son

Pai and environs

 Pai is the darling of the Thai backpacker route, although there are not too many around at the moment. Nevertheless, we are sure that we are the oldest backpackers in town! This is a peaceful place nestling between the mountains on the Pai River and its quiet, laidback attraction is easy to see. At this time of year, the biggest drawback is the smoggy atmosphere as it is the burning season, a time when the farmers across South East Asia burn the stubble in the rice fields and contaminate the atmosphere. You can see the lack of clarity on the hills in some of the photos below. Nearby, there is a Yunnan village comprising of former members of the Kuomintang (Chinese National Party) who were defeated by the Chinese communists and subsequently fled to Thailand. There are other similar villages in remote regions of Thailand and this one has turned itself into something of a tourist attraction. Close by there is also a Lisu Hilltribe village whose members still wear mainly traditional dress.

Santichon Yunnan village, Pai

Santichon Yunnan village, Pai

Santichon Yunnan village, Pai

Lisu Hilltribe women, Pai

Wat Phra That Mae Yen is in the mountains close to Pai

Cattle in typical farmland, Pai

Farmworker harvesting shallots, Pai

Chiang Mai to Pai

 

Road Trip Thailand, Chiang Mai to Pai

The road from Chiang Mai to Pai is innocuous enough in the beginning, with some 30 odd km of dual carriageway heading directly north. Even when you turn off left towards the distant mountains, the road gently glides through many villages but, there is a reason why it takes almost 3 hours to do 132 kilometres and it starts to become very apparent as you start to climb the mountains. The sheer number and tightness of the bends is amazing and actually quite tiring. The road is one section of the famous "Mae Hong Son Loop" considered by the biking fraternity to be one of the world's best motorbike routes with 1864 bends on its 650 km route. It felt like there were 1864 bends on the one stretch we did!

We changed our hotel booking to The Quarter and on arrival, we were glad that we did as the hotel is very conveniently located a few minutes walk from downtown Pai (if you can call it that!) and is quite lovely with a good swimming pool that, considering the heat (38 degrees), is very welcome. Our lunchtime arrival meant that we had time for a walk around before returning for a swim and then out again for dinner and to the market.

Swimming pool, The Quarter, Pai

Cafe/restaurant Pai

Night Market, Pai

Night Market, Pai

Night Market, Pai

Chiang Mai

 From what we have seen the residential areas of Chiang Mai are back to normal with restaurants and bars open. This cannot be said for the tourist areas of the city that are currently ghost towns. We are staying at the Dusit D2 which is in the heart of the Night Bazaar area. This is an area that used to be crammed with street vendors and tourists but, unfortunately no more. The same can also be said for the old town within the city walls. There is barely anyone there and it all looks so sad. Recovery will take a long time.

Today was rather hot and we ventured out to the Hmong market and Chinatown before looking at yet more temples until the heat became too much and we found a German beer garden for some liquid refreshment.

Hmong Market, Chiang Mai

Chinatown, Chiang Mai

A monk checks his phone, Chiang Mai

The Three Kings monument, Chiang Mai

Ice lolly vendor, taking a break in the heat

German beer garden, Chiang Mai

Thai couple wearing Hmong costume

Wat Muentoom, Chiang Mai

Wat Loi Kroh, Chiang Mai

We had dinner in the Red Lion British pub, a long-established hostelry in Chiang Mai, that we have visited on just about every occasion we have been. Subsequently, we jumped in a tuk-tuk  (always fun!) to the Saturday Evening market in Wua Lai Road. The market is similar to the Sunday evening market but in a different location and sells food, handicrafts, hilltribe goods, silver, clothes, etc. and more food!

Tuk-tuk fun, Chiang Mai

Wua Lai Saturday evening market, Chiang Mai

Glass blower, Wua Lai Saturday evening market, Chiang Mai

Wua Lai Saturday evening market, Chiang Mai

Wua Lai Saturday evening market, Chiang Mai

Lampang to Chiang Mai

 

Thailand Road Trip, Lampang to Chiang Mai

Another short-haul through the beautiful, forested mountains of Lampang to the city of Chiang Mai, famed for its temples. It lies on the banks of the Ping River a major tributary of the Chao Phraya that flows through Bangkok. It is the second-largest city in Thailand., founded in 1296 as the new capital of the Lanna Kingdom and its name translates to "New City".  We have, of course, been before and have very happy memories of the area with our girls from about 1993. Ann loves the shopping here and I quite like the temples.

Ann shopping, Chinag Mai

Hmong Hill tribe woman, Chiang Mai

Street hawker, Chiang Mai

Chinatown Gate, Chiang Mai

Local transport, Chiang Mai

Free tea and coffee, Chiang Mai

Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang Mai

Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang Mai

Wat Pan Ping, Chiang Mai

We had a chance to meet up with some friends, who once lived in Bangkok, but Martin and Yvonne have now been living in Chiang Mai for about 8 years. We visited their apartment for a glass of Prosecco before Martin marched us off to a nearby Italian restaurant for some great food.

Yvonne, Martin, Ann & Kevin, Chiang Mai

Lampang

 Lampang is otherwise known to the Thais as "Horse Carriage City", as horse-drawn carriages are still a regular means of transportation here. It is the third-largest city in Northern Thailand and together with Phrae was a centre for harvesting teak from the forests that abounded in the province. The logs were dragged to the Wang River, on the banks of which Lampang sits, by elephants for transport to Bangkok. Sadly the forests are now depleted of teak. The horse-drawn carriages are really just a tourist draw now, but they are clearly a symbol of the city, and, of course, we could not resist an hour's trip for 400 baht with a driver together with his apprentice. We actually thoroughly enjoyed the trip, stopping at a museum with old logging memorabilia, an old farm that had many old carriages and, what else, a temple of course!

Statue commemorating loggers, Lampang

Horse and carriage, Lampang

Old carriages, Lampang

Wat Phra Kaew Don Tao Sucha Daram, Lampang

Our accommodation in Lampang was an old teak house called the Riverside Guest House and although not fully populated with the usual creature comforts, it was clean and rather quaint.

The Riverside Guesthouse, Lampang

The Riverside Guesthouse, Lampang

View from our balcony over the River Wang, The Riverside Guesthouse, Lampang

As a testament to its teak processing past, the city is full of fascinating, old, teak buildings and other interesting architecture. Street artists have also been at work.

Old teak house, Lampang

Interesting architecture, Lampang

Interesting architecture, Lampang

Street art, Lampang

Street art, Lampang

Street art, Lampang

A note on the weather. A week or so ago, we were privately complaining about the weather which was rather grey and cool (25 degrees) for the time of year. Looking at the forecast for Chiang Mai which is our next destination, we can expect temperatures of 39 degrees. How can we possibly complain! Even here in Lampang at the moment, it is bloody hot at 6pm!